Heating & Humidity-
I'm going to be making some updates to this page very soon.I have 7 large cages in the lizard room for the iguanas and spiny tail iguanas. The large cages alone use 11 heat lamps. Those heat lamps keep the temperature of the room around 90F at around 5' in the room and 80F right at the floor during the day, 75F at 5' and 68F at the floor, overnight. It's been adequate enough to keep all the other cages warm enough. Depending how it gets this winter, I may need to add lights to all the tokay cages that are at the lowest levels, which are around 2" off the floor.
If I didn't have all those lamps I would most likely heat them with 25 watt red light bulbs in clamp lamps with reflectors for the size tanks/compartments they're in. I've been able to purchase the lamps at most hardware and home improvement stores and they usually run anywhere from $6- $11. Regular red party bulbs (I think they're 25 watt) are pretty easy to find at the same stores, at least for the lower wattage bulbs, otherwise check at the Bean Farm. Set the light on only one side of the cage so the gecko is able to go to the other side to cool down. It is what is known as thermoregulation.
Also if that doesn't seem to be enough heat, setting a heating pad (on low!) under one side of the tank or taping it to the back of the cage seems to help. Taping it to the side will most likely be the best since they like to hang out on the walls. I have some that prefer the cage floor furnishings over using the wall furnishings, and in that case, the floor heating would useful.
Use heating pads designed for humans. The way I see it, manufacturers have a lot more to lose if a heating pad designed for humans malfunctions, than if a pad (or hot rock) designed for animals malfunctions. In suing for the death of an animal, all you would get is the price paid for that animal (and with a tokay gecko, that would probably be next to nothing). A person injured or killed by a product would warrant much much more in court. This is just my opinion. Also when putting a heating pad under a tank/cage you should prop the cage up with something like wood strips on the sides and slide the pad under so the cage is not resting all its weight on the pad. A towel can be used to raise the pad to the underside of the cage. Always keep it on low, and always give the gecko somewhere in the cage that is not heated so it's able to thermoregulate.
Tokays are nocturnal and don't really need the really bright lights the diurnal animals need. They also do not require UV lighting, though I've seen it to be benefitial especially to babies (because they are growing rapidly) and females (because of the egg laying). At least in diurnal reptiles, UV light is used to synthesize vitamin D3 which facilitates calcium absorbtion. Use caution with calcium products containing D3. Too much can be toxic and I don't think there's been enough research done to say what the proper amount really is.
As for humidity, they seem to do fine in the 40%- 80% range. I mist them once daily with one of those 2 gallon pump sprayers. I bought the large pump sprayer because I have all the tokays plus the iguanas to spray Be careful to check your substrate and furnishings to make sure they're not getting moldy. If the water is given time to evaporate between mistings there's less likelyhood of mold forming. If I had heat lamps I would need to spray them more than once a day since the direct heat from the light would evaporate the water faster than the heat from my lizard room does. Spray after the light has been on for at least a couple hours to give the cage time to warm up. And unless you plan on heating the cage at night, don't spray at least a couple hours before you turn the light goes for the night, otherwise they'll be sitting in a cold wet cage overnight.
Also keep a shallow bowl of fresh water in the cage. I have seen some of mine drink from one. It will also help maintain humidity levels after the mist evaporates. Change it and wash the bowl well at least every other day whether it looks like it needs it or not.
Tokays sometimes have problems with shedding their toes. This is often caused by low humidity levels. If the toe pads remain after the tokay has finished shedding, work the skin off the toes either with a wet Q-Tip or run their toes in tepid water under the faucet and work the skin of gently. It is important to remove all the old shed from their toes. The dead skin can cut off their circulation and they can lose the toes. Also the adhesive lamellae can be damaged if left on and the gecko won't stick to surfaces well. Do not use mineral oil as suggested for terrestrial geckos. The lamellae will be greasy and not adhere to surfaces.
Depending on the temperature of the room the gecko is set up in, heat may need to be used 24 hours a day. One of those indoor/outdoor thermometers with a probe can be useful in determining if your tokay's cage needs more or less heat. Test several areas of the cage, and test at least during these times: right before the lights come back on (early morning), mid-day, and right before the lights turn off (evening), to determine if your cage will need additional heating. According to the book General Care and Maintenece of Tokay Geckos and Related Species, by Sean McKeown and Jim Zaworski, the ideal temperatures are 75-86F for day, and 65-78F for night. Mine have never dropped lower than the low, but I know that before we had air conditioning they have seen temperatures around 100F. Use their temperatures as guidelines for your setup. Be sure to have temperature fluctuation. Stagnant temperatures can be a problem, one factor I believe led to the Pseudomona bacteria problems I had back in 1996. Quoted from the book Reptile Diseases, by Rolf Hackbarth, on the subject of Mouth Rot: "Records on subjects like nutrition, care, temperatures, etc., kept by the hobbyists owning the diseased animals- especially by those that had encountered repeated cases of mouth rot- indicated that the animals had been kept under conditions of excessive repetitiveness or monotony. It was exactly this background in care and maintenance of these animals that actually facilitated the outbreak of mouth rot." The tokays I had that initially got the pseudomona bacteria infection were the ones that were not kept in the lizard room (this was in our previous house). They were kept in the dining room in the compartment cage and for the most part were kept without the higher end temperatures (upper 80s). They fluctuated somewhat in the 70F range. The lizard room would easily reach the upper 80s. The thing that seemed kill off the Pseudomona bacteria was "hot" temperatures (upper 80s) The antibiotics only seemed to hold the bacteria at bay.