CHARACTERISTICS: Boa Constrictor Imperator (BCI) and Boa Constrictor Constrictor (BCC) and their subspecies are good large snakes to start with. They are considered medium-sized boids compared to Burmese Pythons, Reticulated Pythons, and Green Anacondas which can reach lengths of 15'+ and well over 200 pounds. They are basically the corn snakes of the boid (boa/python) world due to their generally docile temperaments, ease of care, and countless color and pattern morphs.

DESCRIPTION & LIFE SPAN: Boa Constrictors in general are long-lived snakes if they are raised with good husbandry. Before buying one, you must be sure you can manage to keep it for the next 20-30 years. BCI and BCC generally have saddles running down the length of their back. Many BCI are marketed as red-tails, i.e. Columbian Redtails. However, BCC are known as the true redtails due to their commonly bright red tails. Often, the colors and patterns vary among BCI and BCC subspecies. Columbian boas, and most other BCI generally reach sizes of 6-8', and BCC generally reach sizes of 9-11'. Not to mention, there will always be some specimens that reach larger sizes to keep you on your toes.

DIFFICULTY RATING: Boa constrictors are generally easy to take care of and are hardy snakes. They are forgiving in husbandry mishaps by the keeper. However, BCI tends to be hardier than BCC, which are be less forgiving. The keeping of boa constrictors in general is fairly simple, but the keeper must have a general knowledge of snakes. Also, a prospective owner must realize the potential of boa constrictors to become large and heavy snakes, particularly females. However, boas are a good medium-sized boid as they can be managed by one person without problems, as opposed to Burmese and Reticulated Pythons

MORPHS: Boa Constrictors, specifically Boa Constrictor Imperators are renowned as the corn snakes of the boid world for their many color and pattern mutations: Albino, Anerythristic, Arabesque, Hypo, Jungle, Melanistic, Motley, Pastel, Pearl, Snow, Striped, Sunglow, Aberrant Pattern Boas.

LOCALITIES & SUBSPECIES: Among the boa constrictors of BCI and BCC, there are numberous localities and subspecies, I will discuss the more well-known boas. The Columbian boas are often considered as the Boa Constrictor Imperators, namely BCI. Other subspecies include Mexicans, Hogg Islands, and Crawl Cays. These haven't had specific scientific names set for them, so they are considered as BCI subspecies. Another BCI subspecies that is not rendered nameless is the Argentine boa (B.C.Longicauda), they don't display the reddish patterning in the tails as the other boas do, but are known for their dark coloration and white speckles. The Boa Constrictor Constrictors, namely BCC are known as the true redtails consist of localities such as: Surinames, Guyanans, Peruvians, and Brazilians. In addition, one such BCC subspecies is the Bolivian Redtail (Boa Constrictor Ortonii). The BCC localities and subspecies are reknown for their beauty and bright red tails, particularly BCC.

RANGE & STATUS IN THE WILD: Boa constrictors range from Mexico through Colombia and South America into Argentina. Subspecies also occur on nearby islands such as Cayos de los Cochinos (Hog Island), and Crawl Cay Island. Regrettably, boas are being farmed for the pet trade. Populations continue to decline due to the skin trade and loss of habitat due to human encroachment.

GOOD STARTER BOAS: If you don't feel ready to jump into the bigger boas (Boa Constrictor Constrictor) just yet, there are several boas that are smaller and would be better first boas/boids to start with. Columbians (Boa Constrictor Imperator) are the most commonly known and are good starter boids due to their docile temperament. A male Columbian would be a good start as males reach about 6' in length and about 8-15 pounds while females are larger and heavier. Another good choice is the Hogg Island Boa (Boa Constrictor Imperator ssp.) which reaches lengths of 4-6' and a weight of 5-15 pounds.

Boas are born at lengths of 12-20" and can be kept in 20-gallon tanks for a short time as neonates. It is up to you to purchase a larger enclosure every time your boa outgrows the older one. It would be more economical to buy an enclosure that will suit an adult size boa for a hatchling and allow them to grow up in such an enclosure. Keep in mind that some snakes, especially young snakes feel more comfortable in smaller enclosures because it provides a sense of security. You will have to work with your boa and learn from it until you find out what your boa prefers.

Consider the entry of your boa's enclosure when selecting cages. Most all-glass tanks work well, but can be stressful to your boa because they may see your hand as a predator as it comes from above reaching in to feed, change water dishes, or to clean the cage. This is stressful because baby boas are regularly hunted by birds of prey, which obviously come from above. Cages with hinged/sliding doors in the front are less stressful to your boa because you will be coming in at their level, and not from above. Cages with front entrances are less commonly available, and usually are more expensive. Make sure these "doors" in front or on top close and lock securely.

The purpose of ensuring that the doors close and lock securely is because snakes, in general, are legless Houdinis. With no legs to get in the way, and a little determination, it doesn't take much for a snake to take advantage of their owner's carelessness. When using a removable screen cover on all-glass tanks, make sure the cover is securely locked whenever the snake will not be under your supervision. Without these locks, a boa can easily lift the cover and slip through the cracks. Another type of screened cover you can use is a sliding screen top. Again, be very careful that you lock the top because a determined boa can also easily slide the cover and slither out. When using hinged doors or sliding glass doors, use locks for the same reasons. Boas are especially strong snakes, and with enough determination, they can use their strong constrictor muscles to push doors and lids open. For this reason, you want to make sure you have a secure locking mechanism that prevents your boa from finding a way to escape. Sliding glass doors are generally the best to use because they provide fewer opportunities for escape. However, make sure these doors are always locked because bigger boas can use their noses and their strength to slide doors open. The small gap between two sliding glass doors may be small enough for a young hatchling or juvenile to slip through. For peace of mind, you can put in a piece of wood between the two glass doors to prevent escape. In sum, it is imperative that you make sure your boa never has the opportunity to escape unless you find pleasure in turning your home upside down searching for a loose boa.

It is important that you are careful that your boa's enclosure locks up well because an 8' boa is as wide as a man's thigh can kill an adult, and smaller specimens can kill children. The last thing you need is to be charged with endangerment, and having your reptile collection taken away. Incidents such as this often set back society a few years because so many people have a deep-seated fear of snakes.

If you want to add things to climb, you will add more dimension to your boa's cage, and allow your boa to get additional exercise from climbing. Boas are generally semi-terrestrial. They are almost equally comfortable in trees. I highly recommend at least one elevated spot for basking. Boas are nocturnal snakes, and they may come out to bask during the day, most often at night. I recommend putting in a branch large and sturdy enough to hold your boa's weight. You should be aware of this, especially when your boa becomes large.

You can never forget a water bowl for your boa. Make sure the bowl is large enough for your boa to submerge their entire body in. Make sure it is not so large that your boa chooses to stay in at all times. At the same time, make sure the bowl is easy to get out of so your snake doesn't drown. Obviously, this is usually not a problem since snakes are escape artists. Fill the bowl about ½ to ¾ full to prevent the water displacement from the soaking snake's body from overflowing and get the substrate wet. This is something you don't want to happen when using a wood type substrate.

When it comes to shedding, the water bowl will be especially important. Boas need humidity in order to make shedding easier. Also, you may want to put in some kind of rough furniture such as a rock or a branch, or a wood half-log hide to aid your boa in rubbing the old skin off. Don't mist your boa too much because too much humidity can cause the skin to dry and not peel off in a complete shed. Or in a worst-case scenario, the moisture can cause the skin to constrict and stop blood flow and cause a bad shed because the old skin sticks to the new skin. When making sure you provide enough humidity, usually you shouldn't have to worry about this and trust Mother Nature. However, it's always important to keep a close eye on your snake in case something does go wrong.

Wood: The different options of wood substrate are aspen, cypress mulch, and hardwood. Shavings are better than chips because they are more flexible and less likely to impact than wood chips would be. But, you should always keep a close eye on the boa while feeding in its enclosure to be on hand to grab any wood chips your boa may accidentally ingest during feeding. Wood chips provide for an attractive and naturalistic substrate, but is more at risk for accidental ingestion or molding when displaced water, or a wet snake comes in contact with the wood substrate. Cedar and pine are a big no-no. Cedar and pine have a strong smell and toxic oils in them and can cause respiratory problems and in reptiles.

Paper: Using newspaper or paper towels is a much more practical form of substrate, especially if you have a large collection of herps. This may not be as attractive as wood chips, but is very low-risk for any problems. Put in consideration, many breeders often keep their snakes on newspaper or paper towels because they have a multitude of reptiles and they don't have the time to deal with the cleaning of all their herps' enclosures if they were kept on naturalistic substrate. Naturalistic substrate is more attractive and provides the ease of spot cleaning when the snake defecates. While on paper, you would have to take the snake out and the whole substrate out to replace. But this is merely a cause for concern as the paper won't mold or cause impactions and other health problems. In addition, naturalistic substrates are much more expensive than newspapers and paper towels.

With all this in mind, you probably wonder what boas eat (if you don't already know). Boas will eat mainly mice and rats. You can also feed chicks, and rabbits for large specimens. Hatchlings will eat fuzzy or hopper mice. Juveniles approximately 24" will eat adult mice or fuzzy rats. As they get larger, gradually increase the rat size for food. Rule of Thumb: Feed prey that are equal to or slightly larger than your boa's widest girth.

IMPORTANT: As "cool" as it might seem, feeding live prey is NOT a good idea. Even though rodents are natural prey of boa constrictors, the reasoning behind this is: in defense mode, if given enough time to respond, a rodent WILL bite. But it is better to never take that chance. Even if the head is not restrained in a coil, the rodent can still bite the snake and injure, or even kill the snake with a lucky bite. Pinky and fuzzy rodents are safe because they are too small and vulnerable to cause any damage. For this reason, many snakes choose to swallow pinkies and fuzzies without killing them first. If your snake will take nothing but live, then you must keep a close eye on the rodent from entrance into the cage until the swallowing process begins. You must NEVER leave a rodent other than pinkies and fuzzies unattended with your snake. Left unattended, a rodent can bite out of fear, or chew on the snake when it turns hungry. A surprisingly high percentage of snakes do not fight back when they are being bitten or chewed on.

FAQ: Why is biting a concern with snakes and their rodent prey? Snakes are naturally adapted to capturing and subduing food in the wild, aren't they? Correct, they are naturally adapted to capturing and subduing prey. In the wild, a rodent has room to escape a hungry snake. Therefore, they are less inclined to bite. And snakes will be able to elude a defensive rodent, if necessary. Plus, in captivity, the nervous pacing of the prey at such close quarters can make the snake nervous, and it may decide not to eat after all.

FAQ: So what other feeding options are there? The best, least violent, and most cost-effective method is to purchase frozen rodents that can be taken out of the freezer and thawed in warm-hot water. (When thawing a rodent, hold it in your hand, and if it turns cold quickly, the inside of the rodent is still cold and needs to be "cooked" longer. Approximately 2-3 minutes will suffice.) Another option is to buy live rodents, and murder (choice word, isn't it?) them yourself. Murder option #1: Hold the rodent by the tail (don't do this with a gerbil, or you will end up holding the tail, and no gerbil) and whack them against the end of a table or doorknob. Murder option #2: place the rodent in a bag or pillowcase and whack them against a door or tile/hardwood floor (This works best for large rats.) Murder option #3: Hold the rodent down on a table by pressing a pencil or ruler by its spine behind the skull and pull the tail. For rabbits, hold them by the ears and feet and pull. I know pre-killing sounds like a sordid option, but who would you rather to be killed? Your beautiful, sexy boa, or the prey? If one feels so compelled to feed live prey, whacking the prey to stun, but not kill is a safe option because the snake will be going after an unconscious rodent that will not be able to awaken until it's in coils and defenseless. (Such a nice way to go, isn't it?)

When you're feeding your boa, make sure your hands don't have the smell of food on them. If you handle prey items or any pet rodents before you pick up your boa, make SURE you wash your hands with soap prior to handling to get the smell off your hand. Otherwise, you will find yourself the newest victim of a stupid feeding error along with a stinging pain, and a bloody hand (unless you have a small boa). You won't want a 8' boa mistaking your face for food.

How often do boas eat? Young boas should be fed once weekly. Once they've eaten, they'll go and hide for a few days. I urge that you do not handle your boa for the next 2-3 days. This can also lead to regurgitation and undue stress. Do not handle your boa soon after feeding unless it is absolutely necessary.

When feeding your boa, you will need to put a few things in consideration. One, what kind of substrate do you use? If you use anything other than paper (i.e. newspaper, paper towel) that can be swallowed, then it's advised you take out your boa for every feeding and feed in a separate enclosure. This will prevent impaction if your boa should accidentally happen to swallow a wood chip or any other kind of substrate. Also, feeding outside of the enclosure has its advantages. If they are fed in their enclosure, they may mistake your hand in the enclosure as a feeding opportunity. if they are fed somewhere other than their enclosure, they will be less likely associate the opening of their cage door with food. Therefore, you have less chance of being bitten in a feeding response.

How much heat is necessary? It is important to imitate your boa's natural climatic temperature as much as possible because they have already adapted to live in these conditions. As stated earlier, boa constrictors' range expands from Mexico to Argentina. It's important to know where your boa is from, so that you know what their temperate climate in that area is like. Reptiles need to thermoregulate to keep their body temperature in check. This means they need to move to warmer areas to raise their body temperatures or move to cooler spots to lower their temperature. In your boa's enclosure, you should provide a temperature of approximately 85°F on the cool side, and 88-92°F on the warm side. At nighttime, the cool side temperature should be 72-77°F, and the warm side should be 78-82°F. There should still be a warm basking spot at night because boas are nocturnal and will bask at night. It's important that your boa's enclosure has a thermometer for the warm side and cool side and a third one for an elevated basking spot (if there is one), so you will know what the temperatures are and to avoid cooking or keeping your snake too cool. Estimates are often way off, sometimes dangerously so.

To provide heat, you can use either a heat light bulb or a ceramic heat bulbs, a heating pad, or heat tape. WARNING: Ceramic heat bulbs don't emit light, but they do produce high heat, so they have been known to cause fires. Your boa cage should also have an under-tank heating pad at all times to provide warmth from the ground up. At night, you have the option to use a night lamp, either purple or red (reptiles cannot see these colors), to provide heat in addition to the heating pad. Boas are nocturnal snakes; therefore, they fare well under low light conditions. Personally, I prefer to provide a bright light in daytime and a night light set on timers to provide a regular photoperiod. REMEMBER: If you use a heating pad, your heating pad must always be on the same side as the lights to allow your boa to move away from the heat when it needs to cool off. It is suggested that you use a heating pad or heat tape of some sort to allow underbelly heat to aid in digestion. Light is not required, as boas only need underbelly heat. But, I prefer to use lights to allow for a photoperiod of day and night cycles.