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Small, quaint, and densely settled, Malé (pronounced
'Mar-lay') is not spectacular, but quite unique as a capital
city. It's clean and tidy, with mosques, markets, a maze of
small streets and a certain charm all its own. While it
sometimes gives the impression of a sleepy country town, there
is new building work everywhere, and the place feels like it
will soon burst at the seams.
The island of Malé is about 2km (1.2mi) long and 1km (0.62mi)
wide, and packed to the edges with buildings, roads and a few
well-used open spaces. Officially, the population is around
65,000, but with foreign workers and short-term visitors from
other islands, there may be as many as 100,000 people in town -
it certainly feels like it. The size of the island has been more
than doubled through land reclamation projects and nearby
islands are used for the airport and other purposes. There are
plans to develop other islands to reduce the pressure on Malé.
Among the city's modest attractions is the
National Museum,
which houses untidy exhibits of the sultans' belongings and a
smattering of Thor Heyerdahl's archaeological discoveries - many
of the ancient stone carvings and figurines are featured in his
book The Maldive Mystery. Near the museum is the pleasant
Sultan Park, and the imposing white
Islamic Centre &
Grand Friday Mosque which dominates the city's skyline. There are over 20 other mosques scatttered around Malé, some
little more than a coral room with an iron roof. The oldest is
the Hukuru Miski, famed for its intricate stone carvings.
One long panel, carved in the 13th century, commemorates the
introduction of Islam to the Maldives, while outside a graveyard
holds the tomb of Abu Al Barakat and the tombstones of former
sultans.
Other sights include the
Singapore Bazaar, a
conglomeration of stores selling some quality local handicrafts
and an assortment of Maldivian and imported tourist
knick-knackery. Also interesting are the shops selling home
hardware, marine equipment, fishing gear and general merchandise
for local villages. In the many small teahouses Maldivian men
enjoy 'short eats' (small snack meals), smoking, chewing and
talking.
Malé has inexpensive food and accommodation, but nightlife is
confined to teahouses and a few western style restaurants. A
couple cinemas show Hindi epics and Hollywood blockbusters.
Malé's expatriates head to a nearby resort on their day off.
Grand Mosque
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The large dome and tall minaret that dominates the skyline as
you approach Malé are part of this Mosque (variously known as
the Islamic Centre, and Sultan Mohammed Thakurufaanu Miskiyy),
which was built in 1984. It is the largest mosque in the
Maldives (accommodating more than 5.00 people), and is the main
centre for prayers in Male’, especially on Fridays and on the
two religious holidays of Eid.
Visitors are allowed inside the mosque only with official
permission, but once inside you will see very intricate motifs
and a mixture of modern and traditionally Islamic architecture
and designs. In fact, much of the artwork was overseen by the
President, Maumoon Abdul Gayyoom, who is an internationally
recognised Islamic scholar.
The grand mosque has many functions: as a place worship
primarily, and also as a place of religious instruction, as a
conference hall for many national events, and as an Islamic
library with numerous volumes on Islam written in English and
Arabic.
Seenu
(Addu Atoll)
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This is the 'second city' of the Maldives, and the resort
here is the best base from which to visit traditional Maldivian
island communities. The Addu people are fiercely independent,
speak differently from folk in the capital and at one time even
tried to secede from the republic.
The biggest influence on Addu's modern history has been the
British bases, first established on the island of Gan during
WWII, as part of the Indian Ocean defences. In 1956, the British
developed a Royal Air Force base as a strategic Cold War
outpost. The base had around 600 permanent personnel, with up to
3000 during periods of peak activity. They built a causeway
connecting Feydhoo, Maradhoo and Hithadhoo islands, and employed
most of the local men. In 1976 the British pulled out, but many
of their employees, who spoke good English and had experience
working for westerners, were well qualified for jobs in the
soon-to-be-booming tourist industry.
Tourist development in Addu itself has been slow to start,
but a resort has been established in the old RAF buildings on
Gan and there are now reliable connections to the capital in a
new Air Maldives jet. The Ocean Reef Resort is not a typical
Maldives tropical paradise resort island, but the old military
base is a unique feature. Gan is linked by causeways to the
adjacent islands, and it's easy and pleasant to get around them
by bicycle, giving unmatched opportunities to visit the local
villages and see village life.
Resorts
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The vast majority of visitors come to the Maldives on package
tours, staying at one of the 70-plus resort islands. Most
resorts are in the three atolls closest to the capital - North
Malé Atoll, South Malé Atoll and Ari Atoll. There are a few
other resorts on nearby atolls, and these might be further
developed in the future. Judging by the brochures, all the
resorts are beautiful and are blessed with white sand, blue sea
and swaying palm trees, and they all promise great diving.
Despite their apparent similarity, however, they differ
considerably in their comfort, cuisine, clientele, character and
their suitability for various excursions and activities.
The quality of accommodation and food is pretty much related
to price - none of the Maldives resorts is bad, but then none is
exactly cheap either. Some have modern, motel-style rooms, while
others are more rustic, with thatched roofs and sand floors. The
larger, cheaper resorts attract more young people, more singles,
and tend to be casual in style and full of people out to have a
good time. Smaller resorts are more intimate and cosy, and may
appeal to couples and honeymooners. Some resorts cater more or
less exclusively to certain nationalities, notably Italian,
German, French and Japanese guests. All resorts offer scuba
diving, but some are known as hardcore divers' destinations.
Note that some resorts having better access to specific dive
sites, local Maldivian villages, or to the capital city than
others.
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