DESCRIPTION & LIFE SPAN: Normal ball pythons are generally gold/brown, dark green, and black. Their side markings vaguely resemble alien heads. Also, ball pythons generally have a black spine stripe with gold/brown spots down their spine. Ball pythons reach average sizes of 3'-5' in adulthood. Ball pythons longer than 5' are considered large. Females generally reach larger sizes than males. In addition, ball pythons are also fairly thick and heavily-bodied adults. Under optimal conditions, balls can live at least 20 years in captivity.

DIFFICULTY: Fairly easy, but keepers must have a general knowledge of snakes, i.e. balls are constrictors, and all snakes are escape artists.

PATTERN & COLOR MORPHS: Normal, Albino, Piebald, Jungle, Pastel, Hypermelanistic, Striped, Ghost, Axanthic, Caramel, Melanistic (black), Goblin, etc. Normals may range from $25-150 depending on age, size, appearance, and whether they are wild caught, farm raised, or captive bred. Other morphs bring in as much as $10-15,000.

RANGE & STATUS IN THE WILD: Large numbers still exist. However, the number is being reduced due to excessive destruction of habitat, skin trade, and pet trade. With the multitude of balls being bred in the pet trade, importation of balls may cease in the near future. Ball pythons hail from central and western Africa.

Ball pythons hatch at lengths of 10"-17" and can be kept in 10 gal. glass aquariums. It is up to you to purchase a larger enclosure every time your ball python outgrows the older one. It would be more economical to buy an enclosure that will suit an adult size ball python for a hatchling and allow them to grow up in such an enclosure. A 30 gal. breeder glass tank is the absolute minimum for an adult.

Keep in mind when considering the entry of your ball python's enclosure. All-glass tanks work well, but can be particularly stressful to your ball python when they see your hand coming from above reaching in to feed, change water dishes, or to clean the cage. This is stressful because ball pythons are regularly hunted by birds of prey, which obviously come from above. Cages with hinged/sliding doors in the front are less stressful to your ball python because you will be coming in at their level, and not from above. Make sure these "doors" in front or on top close and lock securely.

The purpose of ensuring that the doors close and lock securely is because ball pythons, like all snakes, are escape artists. With no legs to get in the way, and a little determination, it doesn't take much for a snake to take advantage of their owner's carelessness. When using a removable screen cover on all-glass tanks, make sure the cover is securely locked whenever the snake will not be under your supervision. Without these locks, a ball python can easily lift the cover and slip through the cracks. Another type of screened cover you can use is a sliding screen top. Again, be very careful that you lock the top because a determined ball python can also easily slide the cover and slither out. When using hinged doors, use locks for the same reasons. Ball pythons, especially large ones with enough determination can use their strong constrictor muscles to push doors open. Sliding glass doors are generally the best to use because they provide less opportunities for escape. However, make sure these doors are always locked because they can also be easily slid open. The small gap between two sliding glass doors may be small enough for a young hatchilng or juvenile to slip through. For peace of mind, you can put in a piece of wood between the two glass doors to prevent escape. In sum, ball pythons, like all snakes, are escape artists, so it is imperative that you make sure your ball python never has the opportunity to escape unless you enjoy turning your home upside down searching for a loose ball python.

If you want to add things to climb, you can do so. Ball pythons are terrestrial so they do not climb much. However, they are equally comfortable in trees, so don't be surprised if they climb your branch to bask. I highly recommend at least one elevated spot for basking. Ball pythons are nocturnal snakes, but they will often come out to bask during the day, most often when you're not around. I recommend either one branch large enough to hold your python, or use epoxy to stack rocks to use as a basking spot. If you plan ahead, you can also make this rock basking spot double as a hide spot. the purpose of the epoxy is to prevent the rocks from tumbling down and crushing your snake when he/she is burrowing.

Also, you can never forget a water bowl for your ball python. Make sure the bowl is large enough for your ball python to submerge their entire body in. At the same time, make sure the bowl is easy to get out of so your snake doesn't drown. Obviously, this is usually not a problem since snakes are natural escape artists. Never fill the bowl near the top, otherwise the water displacement from the snake's body will overflow and get the substrate wet. This is something you don't want to happen when using a wood type substrate.

When it comes to shedding, you will want to make sure you do have a water bowl. Ball pythons need the humidity in order to make shedding easier. Also, you may want to put in some kind of rough furniture such as a rock or a branch to aid your ball in rubbing the old skin off. Don't "over-mist" your ball python to aid in shedding because too much humidity can cause the skin to dry and not peel off in a complete shed. When putting in a water bowl, don't worry about this and trust Mother Nature. Your ball will know how much humidity they need to have a good shed.

Another substrate option is wood chips, which includes mulch. Aspen, cypress, and hardwood are acceptable types of wood to use as a substrate. Cedar and pine are a big no-no. Cedar and pine have a strong smell to them and can cause respiratory problems in reptiles and in some humans. However, there is no "digestible wood" and your ball python may accidentally ingest the wood when fed inside their enclosures. Also, wood chips may get wet from a water bowl that has displaced from a ball python submerging their bodies in water. Misting your enclosure also makes the wood chips wet. Wet wood chips cause mold and fungus to grow which causes respiratory problems in your python.

With all this in mind, you probably wonder what ball pythons eat (if you don't already know). Ball pythons will eat mainly mice and rats. You can also feed chicks, and small rabbits for large specimens. Hatchlings will eat pinkie mice. Juveniles approximately 24" will eat adult mice. As they get larger, gradually increase the rat size for food. Large adults will eat large rats. Rule of Thumb: Feed prey that are equal to or smaller than your ball python's widest girth. They can eat slightly prey that are slightly larger, but do not continue practicing this as it may lead to regurgitation.

IMPORTANT: As "cool" as it might seem, feeding live prey is NOT a good idea. Even though rodents are natural prey of ball pythons, the reasoning behind this is: in defense mode, if given enough time to respond, a rodent WILL bite. But it is better to never take that chance. Even if the head is not restrained in a coil, the rodent can still bite the snake and injure, or even kill the snake with a lucky bite. Pinky and fuzzy rodents are safe because they are too small and vulnerable to cause any damage. For this reason, many snakes choose to swallow pinkies and fuzzies without killing them first. If your snake will take nothing but live, then you must keep a close eye on the rodent from entrance into the cage until the swallowing process begins. You must NEVER leave a rodent other than pinkies and fuzzies unattended with your snake. Left unattended, a rodent can bite out of fear, or chew on the snake when it turns hungry. A surprisingly high percentage of snakes do not fight back when they are being bitten or chewed on.

FAQ: Why is biting a concern with snakes and their rodent prey? Snakes are naturally adapted to capturing and subduing food in the wild, aren't they? Correct, they are naturally adapted to capturing and subduing prey. In the wild, a rodent has room to escape a hungry snake. Therefore, they are less inclined to bite. Snakes will be able to escape a defensive rodent. Plus, in captivity, the nervous pacing of the prey can make the snake nervous, and they may decide not to eat after all.

FAQ: So what other feeding options are there? The best, least violent, and most cost-effective method is to purchase frozen rodents that can be taken out of the freezer and thawed in warm-hot water. (When thawing a rodent, hold it in your hand, and if it turns cold quickly, the inside of the rodent is still cold and needs to be "cooked" longer. Approximately 2-3 minutes will suffice.) Another option is to buy live rodents, and murder (choice word, isn't it?) them yourself. Murder option #1: Hold the rodent by the tail (don't do this with a gerbil, or you will end up holding the tail, and no gerbil) and whack them against the end of a table or doorknob. Murder option #2: place the rodent in a bag or pillowcase and whack them against a door or tile/hardwood floor (This works best for large rats.) Murder option #3: Hold the rodent down on a table by pressing a pencil or ruler by its spine behind the skull and pull the tail. For rabbits, hold them by the ears and feet and pull. I know pre-killing sounds like a sordid option, but who would you rather to be killed? Your beautiful, sexy pet snake, or the prey? If one feels so compelled to feed live prey, whacking the prey to stun, but not kill is a safe option because the snake will be going after an unconscious rodent that will not be able to awaken until it's in coils and defenseless. (Such a nice way to go, isn't it?)

When you're feeding your ball python, make sure your hands don't have the smell of food on them. If you handle prey items or any pet rodents before you pick up your ball python, make SURE you wash your hands with soap prior to handling to get the smell off your hand. Otherwise, you will find yourself the newest victim of a stupid feeding error along with a stinging pain, and a bloody hand.

How often do ball pythons eat? Balls should be fed once weekly. Once they've eaten, they'll go and hide for a few days. I urge that you do not handle your ball for the next 3 days. This can also lead to regurgitation or loss of interest in eating later.

When feeding your ball, you will need to put a few things in consideration. One, what kind of substrate do you use? If you use anything other than paper (i.e. newspaper, paper towel) that can be swallowed, then it's advised you take out your ball python for every feeding. This will prevent impaction if your ball should accidentally happen to swallow a wood chip or any other kind of substrate. Also, feeding outside of the enclosure has its advantages. Your ball can be handled between their enclosure and feeding tank. Also, if they are fed somewhere other than their enclosure, they will not associate the opening of their cage door with food every time. Therefore, you have less chance of being bitten in a feeding strike.

How much heat is necessary? It is important to imitate your ball python's natural climatic temperature as much as possible because they are already adapted to live in these conditions. Reptiles need to thermoregulate to keep their body temperature in check. This means they need to move to warmer areas to raise their body temperatures or move to cooler spots to lower their temperature. In your ball python enclosure, you should provide a temperature of 80-85°F on the cool side, and 90-95°F on the warm side. At nighttime, the cool side temperature should be 70-75°F, and the warm side should be 75-80°F. There should still be a warm basking spot at night because ball pythons are nocturnal. I highly recommend you get a thermometer for the warm side and cool side and a third one for an elevated basking spot (if there is one), so you will know what the temperatures are and to avoid cooking or underheating your snake. Estimates are often way off, sometimes dangerously so.

To provide heat, you can use either a day light or a ceramic heat bulbs. WARNING: Ceramic heat bulbs don't emit light, but they do produce high heat, so they have been known to cause fires. Your ball python cage should also have an under-tank heating pad at all times to provide warmth from the ground up. At night, you have the option to use a night lamp, either purple or red (reptiles cannot see these colors), to provide heat in addition to the heating pad. Ball pythons are nocturnal snakes; therefore, they fare well under low light conditions. Personally, I prefer to provide a bright light in daytime and a night light set on timers to provide a regular photoperiod. REMEMBER: Your heating pad must always be on the same side as the lights to allow your ball python to escape the heat when necessary.